Hawaiʻi has a little different dress code from North America. Sometimes people can be a little puzzled as to what to wear to events in Hawaiʻi, and how to wear a lei. So, here is a guide for what to wear at various events in Hawaiʻi. Most formal is at the top, least formal is at the bottom.
Kumu Leilehua tells an anecdote:
My husband-to-be had taken me to the Marine Corps Ball in Honolulu. I wore a deep red brocade holokū with black velvet trim, and lei of deep red roses. During the evening, I went to the ladies room, and happened to be washing my hands when a young female officer came to wash her hands as well. She looked at my holokū, and at my lei, and remarked, “How innovative! Wearing flowers for jewelry!”
Often the invitation will say something like: Black tie, Aloha Attire, Formal, or Crisp Aloha.
As different people may draw the lines between them in different places, if unsure, the best call is to enquire when returning the RSVP. And DO please be sure and répondez s’il vous plaît.
It is frustrating for hosts to try and plan when they have no idea how many to plan for. If, after confirming, you change your mind and decide not to go, immediately contact the host so they can either cancel your plate or invite someone else. Leaving the host hanging is rude and disrespectful.
So, here are some guidelines, Haole and Maoli style. Starting with the most formal:
White Tie
Yes, Hawaiʻi actually has the occasional white tie event. Imagine heads of state convening in Honolulu at Washinton Place, the Governor’s mansion. While most of us do not move in such rarified atmospheres, it is still interesting to see the rules which appertain to such soirees. GQ Quarterly has a good article on White Tie.
Kāne (men):
Haole – A long black jacket with tails, a white pique vest and a bow tie. Formal black shoes and even white gloves are appropriate. If you are entitled to wear sashes, honors, and such, you already know how to dress for these events.
Maoli – The same attire, add a long open lei maile, an intricate cigar-flower lei, a lei hulu in the kamoe style, OR (if you are so entitled) your lei niho palaoa and ʻahu ʻula. The only item worn over an ʻahu ʻula is the lei niho palaoa. If you are given lei while wearing your ʻahu ʻula, generally you will admire them, thank the giver, and lay them in an appropriate place of honor where they can be admired. When the formality recedes to the point where you remove your ʻahu ʻula, then don the lei.
Wāhine (women):
Haole – A formal, full-length ball gown. Professionally done (or professional looking) makeup and hair are appropriate. If you are entitled to wear sashes and honors, you already know what to do. This is when you get the good diamonds out of the safe.
Maoli – Long-train (more than 1 meter) holokū in a formal fabric such as velvet, silk, satin brocade, or lace. Lei hulu (feather lei) OR long open lei maile with diamonds or your heirloom boar tusk jewelry. The hair may be dressed with lei hulu, or with feather hair ornaments. Foliage and floral lei are not generally worn with lei hulu, though they may be worn with stones, ivory, tusk, jade, etc. Floral lei would be in the more formal styles, such as moanaloa/maunaloa, ʻʻilima, Ōlaʻa Beauty, cigar flower, and designed to enhance the neckline of the holokū. Shoes often are made of the same fabric as the holokū. If wearing the ʻahu ʻula and lei niho palaoa, no other lei are worn at the neck, though lei hulu may be used to dress the hair.
Black Tie
Generally an evening affair, and far more frequent than White Tie. For details, FashionBeans has an excellent article.
Kāne:
Haole – A tuxedo with black bow tie, cummerbund or waistcoat, and patent leather shoes. Literal black is not a requirement. Very deep blue which looks black in dim light also is appropriate.
Maoli – The same attire, but instead of a cummerbund, the kāʻai, Hawaiian sash, is worn. As in white tie, a long open lei maile, an intricate cigar-flower lei, a lei hulu in the kamoe style, OR (if you are so entitled) your lei niho palaoa and ʻahu ʻula. Remember, the only item worn over an ʻahu ʻula is the lei niho palaoa. See the white tie synopses for lei protocols.
Wāhine:
Haole – A long evening gown in velvet, chiffon, silk, or lace is appropriate. Heel height should be comfortable enough to stand for some time, and learning what kind of surface you will walk on is also helpful for choosing appropriate shoes.
Maoli – A holokū in velvet, silk, lace, or brocade. The train may be a meter or less. Lei selection, ʻahu ʻula, etc. would be much as white tie.
Formal / Black Tie Optional
Similar to black tie, but perhaps a little earlier in the day. It’s a good idea to communicate with others involved to see what the consensus is for dress.
Kāne:
Haole – A tuxedo or a formal dark suit and tie.
Maoli – A Hawaiian dress shirt in a formal fabric; They are designed to be worn without a coat or waistcoat. Kāʻai (Hawaiian sash). Long open lei maile, an intricate cigar-flower lei, a lei hulu in the kamoe style, or other of the more formal lei are appropriate. If given lei of any style, they should be worn.
Wāhine:
Haole – Full length formal to cocktail length gown, or even a dressy suit can be worn. Depend on rich fabrics and colors to lend formality. A rough guide is, “the later the longer.” The later in the evening of an event, the longer and more formal the dress. Select shoes with the knowledge that there may be much standing involved. Jewelry ranges from pearls to diamonds.
Maoli – The same holokū as for black tie, though shorter to “barely there” kick trains, little more than a slightly longer gore in the back of the dress, are fine. One might also opt for a dressy muʻumuʻu in a formal fabric, a tea-length muʻu, or something dressy yet modern by one of our local designers.
Cocktail Attire
Even less formal than black tie and black tie optional. You’ll probably stand a lot. Generally held a little earlier in the evening.
Kāne:
Haole – A nice suit and tie.
Maoli – A nice suit worn with a high-end aloha shirt. You can forego the tie and replace it with an elegant lei. A quality hand-polished and faceted lei kukui would be appropriate.
Wāhine:
Haole – A cocktail dress, dressy suit, pantsuit, jumpsuit, or culottes in evening-appropriate fabrics. Jewelry can be more fun, fashion-forward.
Maoli – We can start moving from the heavy velvets, brocades, etc., to silks, cottons, linens, and rayons for dressy muʻumuʻu, tea-length muʻumuʻu, or something modern and fun by our local designers.
Beach Formal
In Hawaiʻi, this could cover a lot of ground. But generally it would be typified by a beach wedding combining elegance with a carefree esthetic. Cotton, rayon, and linen are excellent fabric choices. Wear things that can get wet and sandy, and that one can walk rocky paths and across a beach in. Having a light jacket or a wrap on hand would not be amiss. Since you’ll be wearing sandals, treat yourself to nice foot massage and a pedicure a few days before the event!
Kāne:
Haole – Summer suit with a linen shirt, no tie unless specified. Linen or khaki pants. Sandals. Socks generally would not be worn with the sandals.
Maoli – Summer suit with an aloha shirt, lei of choice, Linen or khaki pants, sandals.
Wāhine:
Haole – A formal summer sundress at tea or knee length, flat sandals. Natural makeup and hair. Summery jewelry.
Maoli – Cocktail or tea length shorty-muʻu, or a new fashion by one of our local designers, flat sandals, natural makeup, lei of choice, lei poʻo or fresh flowers in the hair.
Semiformal, Dressy casual, Crisp Aloha, Aloha Attire
This is often the dress code for business get-togethers in the islands; Chamber of Commerce and other such functions often opt for crisp aloha. The time of the event will be your guide. Choose light colors and fabrics when the sun is high; select darker, more formal colors and fabrics as the sun goes down. Shirts other than barong tagalog are tucked in.
Aloha Attire is a step less formal than Crisp Aloha, but otherwise the same. No jacket or tie is needed. Aloha shirts are cut so that they may be worn in or out. Leave them out for Aloha Attire, tuck them in for Crisp Aloha. Dressy shorts may be worn with Aloha Attire.
Kāne:
Haole – A suit and tie, lighter in the morning, darker in the evening.
Maoli – Suit with or without tie, dressy aloha shirt tucked in. The barong tagalog, a formal shirt which is the national dress of the Philippines, is worn untucked. Choice of lei. For out of doors daytime, or in very hot weather, dressy shorts are suitable for Aloha Attire and Crisp Aloha.
Wāhine:
Haole – A cocktail dress, dressy skirt and top, or dressy business attire all are good choices.
Maoli – A cocktail or tea length muʻumuʻu or aloha style business attire are good choices. Local designers have come up with many beautiful new styles appropriate for these events.
Casual or Daytime
This is probably the most confusing, as it can mean so many things to so many people. But you will be safe if you dress neatly and appropriately for the location.
Kāne:
Haole – Dress pants with a button-down shirt or polo shirt.
Maoli – Aloha Attire
Wāhine:
Haole – A summer sundress or a skirt or pants with a nice blouse. Makeup and hair can be natural.
Maoli – Aloha Attire